Saturday, January 28, 2012

Wade allowed to run for 3rd term

We've been at home for the last 2 days as we awaited the verdict regarding the Constitution. Laird and Dylan certainly let us know they had a bad case of cabin fever, and out of desperation we went for a quick walk around the neighborhood today. All is calm and quiet right now, however there are warnings of riots and future demonstrations.

Below is the link for a story Richard wrote for Reuters.

http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/01/28/us-senegal-election-idUSTRE80R0LN20120128
Senegal opposition urges more 'resistance' after riots
12:31pm EST

By Diadie Ba

DAKAR (Reuters) - Senegal's opposition said on Saturday it would make the country "ungovernable" if President Abdoulaye Wade insisted on running for a third term in elections next month, raising the spectre of renewed riots in West Africa's most peaceful nation.

One policeman was killed during protests late on Friday, in which demonstrators threw rocks, overturned cars and burned tyres and security forces fired tear gas, after the country's top court said Wade had the right to seek a new term.

Calm returned to the capital Dakar by Saturday but security was boosted around the presidential palace, where truckloads of police in full riot gear were deployed, armed with tear gas grenade launchers and truncheons.

"Abdoulaye Wade has declared war on the people," Amath Dansakho, the head of the PIT party and member of the M23 opposition activist group, told reporters following a meeting with other political and civil society leaders.

"The decision that we have just made will prove to Wade that this is a country of free people. We will render the country ungovernable," he said.

Friday's clashes came after Senegal's top legal body validated the candidacy of 85-year-old Wade and 13 rivals for the February 26 vote, but turned down the presidential bid of world music star Youssou N'Dour, saying he did not have the required 10,000 signatures of support.

Wade's rivals say the constitution sets an upper limit of two terms on the president. But Wade, who came to power in 2000 and was re-elected in 2007, has argued his first term pre-dated the 2001 amendment establishing the limit.

M23 said in a press release on Saturday the court's decision was a "constitutional coup, and a prelude to what will be an electoral coup" and called on Senegalese across the country to resist Wade's re-election bid.

POLICEMAN KILLED

Senegal's interior ministry said on Saturday that a policeman was killed during Friday's clashes, which began after protesters that had gathered in a public square attempted to march towards the presidential palace.

The policeman "was gravely injured in the head by a brick that had been thrown, and he succumbed shortly afterward," the ministry said in a press release, adding security forces remained committed to preserving the peace.

A leading human rights activist and vocal critic of Wade, Alioune Tine, told Reuters by text message on Saturday afternoon that he had been arrested by Senegal's criminal investigation unit, but he could not give further details.

Wade had appeared on state television late on Friday appealing for calm and promising free and fair polls.

Senegal is the only country in mainland West Africa to have not had a coup since the end of the colonial era. February's poll, and a possible run-off a few weeks later, are seen as a test of social cohesion in the predominantly Muslim country.

Critics say that Wade, who spent 26 years in opposition to Socialist rule, has done nothing during his 12 years in power to alleviate poverty in a country where formal employment is scarce, and has dragged his heels on tackling official graft.

Wade points to spending on education and infrastructure projects such as roadbuilding as proof of progress towards turning Senegal into an emerging market country and a trade hub.

His candidacy has raised eyebrows abroad. The senior U.S. State Department official for Africa, William Fitzgerald, told French RFI radio that Wade's candidacy was "a bit regrettable."

Rival presidential hopeful Amsatou Sow Sidibe called on Wade to withdraw his candidacy voluntarily. "Peace and tranquility in Senegal depends on it," she told Reuters by telephone.

Reuters reporters late on Friday saw youths set fire to tyres and overturn cars in Dakar. Protests were also reported in the towns of Thies, Mbour, and Kaolack, where state radio said the local headquarters of Wade's liberal PDS were burned down.

(Writing and additional reporting by Richard Valdmanis; Editing by Myra MacDonald)

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Thursday, January 12, 2012

Happy 2nd Birthday!


Dear Laird and Dylan,

On this day, two years ago, you were born.

I laid flat for 90 days in a hospital room, anticipating, praying, talking to, and loving you everyday. We fought an incredible battle together, and WON.

Your Dad flew 3 round trip flights from Africa, anticipating your arrival. And despite the physical distance during those 90 days, your Dad called everyday and spoke to you...while mom held the phone to her tummy.

You were born quite early, but were strong and brave.

Since the day you were born, life has never been the same for us. We love you more than anything in this world. You have taught us so much in such a short amount of time; our hearts are so full of love that I often wonder if it may burst at times. Everyday, we laugh until tears come, or cry because we are so happy with you...

At two years old, you both love to sing and dance. You love going for long walks and exploring the outside world. You love to ride you trikes. You both speak French and English, and are starting to say French words to Dad, and English words to Mom. You are *mostly* potty trained. Your favorite place to be is the beach. Your best friends are each other, and you still fall asleep every night talking to one another, while sucking on your beloved blue dogs. Your favorite book is 'Forever Young' by Bob Dylan as you love to sing along with the lyrics and point out all of the pictures you recognize in 2 languages. Your favorite foods are anything that is a fruit, curries, and spaghetti and meatballs. Your favorite words are 'back-hoe', 'big big truck', 'bateau', 'mouton', and 'NOOOO'!

Laird and Dylan, you are my two beautiful, strong, courageous, hilarious, and loving sons. You are our miracles.

Happy 2nd Birthday my dear angels.

Love,
Mom and Dad

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

New Years Eve 2012 Dinner

(photo by: Matthew Hranek)


After a birthday party at the Zimbabwe Ambassador's house, we enjoyed the rest of the New Years evening with our sugar filled, happy twins. Luckily, despite the sugar intake between the two, they fell fast asleep at bedtime.

Rich and I set to work and prepared a DELICIOUS dinner for two at home. Yes, we splurged for salmon here in Dakar; 2 small steaks cost $18. However, it was worth every penny.
We roasted tomatoes for 2 1/2 hours...which was worth the wait. Just enough time to enjoy a glass of champagne, or two.

Follow the recipe EXACTLY.
Recipe is below or here.
Thank you Epicurious.

Wild Salmon with Pearl Couscous,

Slow-Roasted Tomatoes, and Lemon Oregano Oil


We prefer wild salmon not only for ecological reasons but for its flavor, which is more mild than that of farm raised. Although limited varieties are available year-round, peak season begins in the spring, when the fish are caught en route to their spawning rivers.

Yield: Makes 6 servings
Active Time: 40 min
Total Time: 3 1/4 hr (includes roasting tomatoes)
ingredients
For tomatoes and lemon oregano oil
6 plum tomatoes (1 lb), halved lengthwise
1 1/4 teaspoons sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
10 fresh basil leaves
12 whole fresh oregano leaves plus 3 tablespoons finely chopped

2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler and finely minced
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

For couscous
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 1/4 cups pearl (Israeli) couscous (12 oz)
1 3/4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (14 fl oz)
1 cup water
1/4 teaspoon salt

For salmon
6 (6-oz) pieces wild salmon fillet with skin (preferably center cut)
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives (3 oz), pitted and quartered lengthwise
preparation
Roast tomatoes and prepare oil:

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 250°F.

Toss tomatoes with sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and arrange, cut sides down, in a small shallow baking pan. Heat oil in a 9- to 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook garlic, stirring occasionally, until pale golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in basil and whole oregano leaves, then pour oil over tomatoes. Roast tomatoes until very tender but not falling apart, 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 hours.

Transfer tomatoes with a spatula to a large plate, then pour oil through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl or measuring cup, discarding solids. Stir in chopped oregano, zest, juice, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper.


Cook couscous:

Heat 2 teaspoons olive oil in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then toast couscous, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and pale golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add broth, water, and salt and simmer, covered, until liquid is absorbed and couscous is al dente, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, 10 minutes, then stir in 2 1/2 tablespoons lemon oregano oil. Season with salt.


Roast salmon while couscous stands:

Put oven rack in upper third of oven and preheat oven to 500°F. Line a 17- by 12-inch shallow baking pan with foil.

Arrange salmon, skin sides down, in baking pan, then drizzle with olive oil, rubbing it over tops of fillets, and sprinkle with salt. Roast salmon until just cooked through, 12 to 14 minutes.

Divide couscous among 6 plates. Lift salmon flesh from skin with a slotted spatula and transfer a fillet to each bed of couscous. Put 2 tomato halves on each plate, then sprinkle salmon with olives and drizzle with some lemon oregano oil.


Cooks' note:
Tomatoes can be roasted 3 days ahead and chilled in oil in an airtight container. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.



Saturday, December 31, 2011

Santa!



The boys saw their first live Santa Claus here in Dakar.
At a local supermarket, there was Senegalese, Wolof speaking St Nick the week before Christmas.

Both boys were quite brave, however, Laird broke down with fear after a few seconds of putting on a brave face.


Dylan staring bravely while Laird broke down.



Laird turned his back and would not look at Santa again.

Better luck next year.

Friday, December 30, 2011

Merry Christmas


Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all of our family, friends, and loved ones back home. Cheers to a wonderful 2012.

Friday, December 23, 2011

Valdmanis Prison


Front door

It's almost Christmas and our landlord blessed us with a gift of military style barbed wire surrounding our house. We are very happy about the added safety, however, our trees had to be drastically cut back in order to properly install the wire along the surrounding 10 ft wall of our house.

It looks like a prison. However, we will be safe inside. Not to mention we have for 4 guards, alarms, bars on all windows and doors, stun-gun, and mace. Oh yes, and 'robber rope'... For those of you that have not lived in a 3rd world country and have not heard the term 'robber rope' before: 'robber rope' is rope we have in various locations that will be used to tie up a robber.

Have left a message with Johnny Cash to see if he could come record an album from Valdmanis Prison.


Wednesday, December 21, 2011

It takes a village...



A highlight of our U.S. Thanksgiving weekend in Senegal was a two-day trip down to Popenguine, a little fishing village about two hours south of Dakar. We rented a house on the beach, swam in the sea, and ate leftover turkey. On our first morning there, we all decided to go for a long walk along the beach to town, before the sun got too hot.

On the way, we spotted about 10 men tugging on a thick rope that extended out into the ocean. About two hours later we returned from a stroll in town and the men were still pulling, and more people had gathered to watch and help. Birds were circling and diving. It felt like something was about to happen, so we decided to sit down in the sand and watch.

Laird and Dylan met some village kids and they all played together as we waited for the net to come in.

Given the amount of work, we expected the net to be teaming with fish. But when the men finally dragged it up onto dry sand, it contained barely anything. People from the village carrying empty plastic buckets rushed in and took what they could grab to go sell in the market. Children took the smallest fish, still alive, from the nets and put them in bottles of sea water to watch them swim. The men unfurled the net and put it up onto the beach in preparation for another day.

Finally, the net is on shore.

The ladies gathering the few fish that were in the net.

Disappointment

"We put the net out when the sea is calm, like today," said one of the wizened old fishermen, wearing a blue wool cap. He said they paddle a pirogue several hours before sunrise to set the net about 400 meters from shore, then they pull it in after first light.

"When we catch real fish, we sometimes sell them as far away as Rufisque and Thies," he said, refering to towns about an hour away. "But today we caught nothing."

Laird and Dylan were blown away by the whole scene and said 'fish' for most of the rest of the day.


Laird saying, 'Oh. Oh. Ohhhhh.' while watching the net.


Dylan loves the sand!

Letting the net rest for another day.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Goree Swim Take 2



One thing you learn as a surfer is never to paddle directly against a rip current. If you feel yourself getting sucked out toward the shipping lanes, you're supposed to paddle across the current to calmer waters. Fighting the current head-on will only make you tired.

This little tidbit came in handy at the end of October when I joined up for my second Dakar-Goree Traverse -- a 5km swim from the city of Dakar to the former slaving station at Goree Island. When I did the swim in 2010, it took me about 3 hours and I had a mild panic attack half way through -- I'd never been so far from land without a deck under my feet. This year was much easier for me, but it wasn't without its challenges.

At the very end of the swim, next to Goree Island, there was rip so powerful that it looked like the Columbia River had been superimposed on the sea. About 50 swimmers battled the current head-on, clustered together in a swirling mass, as I got sucked into the fray. I dodged the flailing arms and legs and doggy-paddled across the rip into the shallow, eddying waters next to the island. One guy followed, and together we zoomed past everyone else through the relatively calm patch. Five minutes later we were on Goree sipping beer.

I didn't think much about it until yesterday, when the Senegalese Swimming Federation sent a letter to all of this year's competitors. It wasn't a note of congratulations, as I had assumed. It was an apology for "an incident that caused frustration to several swimmers".

"Essentially, a strong current affected a large number of swimmers, who were eventually trapped behind the Goree prison, with enormous difficulty getting out (...) In order to avoid risks to the swimmers and to ensure their security, we decided to remove them from the water (...) as many had been in the water for too long."

I was pretty happy not to have been one of them. And I have surfing to thank for it.

***Note: Richard placed second in his division!

Yes!

Lindy and I at a perfect 'Finish Line' watching spot.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Samba's Beach

It is only a 5 minute walk to a local beach from our house (or 45 minutes if you walk with the boys). There are 2 names for this beach: Les Prieres (The Prayers) or Marabou Wall Beach.

In our house, we call the beach 'Samba's Beach'.

We have been going to this beach since we moved into our house...almost two years. During these two years, we have seen the beach improve in terms of cleanliness and access. Last year, 2 different groups of men took over the beach, providing drinks, parasols, and matts for a nominal fee. They also began to clean the beach, remove trash, and create stairways for easy access down the steep cliffs.

The Samba Brothers run the right side of the beach. They are Bi-fals, a local tribe here, know for their 'rasta-like' appearance. They do not pray 5 times a day like other muslims, they can eat pork, they can smoke and drink if they wish, and they do not fast during Ramadan. They are particularly known for their singing, drumming, and chanting as they carry the word of Allah across the lands.

The Sambas are at the beach everyday. I believe they live there, although, I am not certain. They clean the beach in the morning, set up parasols, serve cold drinks, and then sing and drum throughout the rest of the day. The Samba's are gentle, happy, and always smiling.

The boys ADORE the Sambas.... And I have no doubt, the Samba's adore the boys. They teach the boys drumming, Wolof, and walk with them up and down the beach. The last few days we have gone, the boys did not want to sit with Mom on the beach as they preferred to drum with the Sambas.


Samba and friends at the drum circle.


Ummmm....Dylan doesn't look happy at all.


The boys trying to follow along to Samba's clapping.


Beach walk with Samba

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Banana bread



Unlike our lime tree that has only given us one lime in two years, our banana tree blesses us with two separate crops of bananas each year....with each crop having at least a few bushels. Twice a year, we have at least 50-75 bananas that are ripe all at the same time. After giving a lot away, we are still left with a freezer full of bananas.


Here is a pic and link from our first banana cutting last year.

What to do with tons of frozen bananas? Banana bread, of course.

Since we have lived here in Senegal, I have made 1-2 loaves of banana bread each week. We usually have one on hand in our house, and the others we give to our staff, guards, or neighbors.

Statistically speaking, that means I have made about 150 loaves of banana bread in the last two years. I have tried dozens and dozens of recipes. I have used recipes from my favorite cooks and chefs.

In my '150 loaves in two years' opinion, banana bread is best when it is kept simple.

In my recipe box, I have kept an old folded piece of paper with a banana bread recipe written on it. I have no idea who it is from. I thought is was Betty Crocker, but it's not. Maybe it's my grandmothers....I don't know. But it's simple, and delicious.

Banana Bread:
4 ripe bananas, mashed *if using frozen bananas, you will need to add 1 more cup of flour
1/3 cup melted butter
1 cup sugar, + 1 tsp to sprinkle on top of loaf
1 beaten egg
1 1/2 tsp vanilla
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 cup flour

Preheat oven to 350. Mash bananas in a large bowl. Add sugar, egg, vanilla, and sprinkle in salt and baking soda. Add flour and stir well.
Butter a loaf pan and pour in. Sprinkle with sugar and bake for 50 minutes or until toothpick comes out clean.

**Chocolate chunk banana bread: Crumble 1 chocolate bar and set aside. Follow recipe above, then just pour 3/4 of the batter into pan. Then sprinkle in chocolate. Top with rest of batter and sprinkle with sugar.